Discovering Italy’s overlooked Dolomites: vast mountains free of crowds

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By Grace Mitchell

The overlooked Dolomites offer a serene escape into nature, featuring clear waterfalls, mountain meadows, and high-altitude refuges. This less-visited region lies to the east of the more popular areas like Tre Cime di Lavaredo and Val Gardena. The main gateway to this tranquil part of the Dolomites is Belluno, located two hours north of Venice by train or a drive up the A27.

overlooked Dolomites: what to know

Exploring the Forgotten Dolomites

From Belluno, visitors can access the upper Piave valley, which leads into the quieter Friulian mountains. The landscape transitions from gentle pastures to towering stone spires, creating a picturesque setting. The local councils, known as the Regole di ComunitƠ, manage the land and forests collectively, supporting artisans and alpine farmers in the scattered hamlets. Traditional foods such as pastƬn, malga cheeses, and polenta are still enjoyed, often accompanied by grappa at the end of a long day.

Beyond the hamlets, numerous paths lead towards notable peaks like Monte Pelmo and into the beech woods of Cansiglio, where deer can be heard calling at dusk. This area is ideal for those looking to immerse themselves in mountain culture.

Highlights of the Region

The Val del Mis, located west of Belluno, features the narrow SP2 road that follows the shore of Lago del Mis. This lake is a destination in itself, offering opportunities for canoeing or kayaking towards the Cascata della Soffia waterfall. Visitors can also explore the Falcina gorge, where swimming is possible in deep, crystalline pools beneath the Passerella del Peron suspension bridge.

From the northern end of the lake, a short walk leads to the Cadini del Brenton, a series of turquoise pools cascading from one basin to another. Although bathing is forbidden here, the scenery is striking. For those seeking more adventure, the route continues north-west towards San Martino di Castrozza, leading to the stunning Lago di Calaita, situated at an altitude of 1,621 meters beneath the Pale di San Martino massif.

In winter, the lake freezes, and the surrounding meadows become a popular area for snowshoeing. A two-hour uphill walk from the lake leads to Lago Pisorno, known for its haunting tales.

Scenic Trails and Culinary Delights

For breathtaking views, visitors can head to Agordino, a group of valleys along the Cordevole river, south of Cortina d’Ampezzo. Here, the CAI trail 472 leads to the slopes of Monte Penna, offering a direct view of Monte Pelmo’s impressive north-west wall. The gentle grass underfoot contrasts with the sheer rock face across the valley.

Another notable hike begins from the hamlet of Piaia, where an old mule track leads through woods to Sasso Bianco, providing a close-up view of Monte Civetta. The Alpago basin also offers hiking opportunities, with the Costa Schienon ridge leading to Cima delle Vacche, a peak at 2,058 meters.

For those interested in culinary experiences, Agriturismo Bon Tajer in Valbelluna showcases local traditions with dishes made from valley produce. The restaurant features hand-painted wooden plates and serves meals that highlight local herbs and ingredients.

Malga Campon, located above Feltre, offers homemade food and serves as a starting point for hikes across the plateau. The area is known for its beautiful views and seasonal wildflowers.

In the northern region, the road ends at Rifugio Padova, where hikers can continue to explore the surrounding meadows and woods. The nearby Rifugio Tita Barba di Pieve provides accommodation and meals, making it a cozy stop for those trekking through the area.

For a more rustic experience, Bivacco dei Loff offers a stone bothy with stunning views of the Valle del Rujo. This location is accessible via a 90-minute hike from Passo San Boldo.

In the far eastern part of the region, the Cansiglio plateau features Agriturismo Filippon, which is surrounded by nature and offers meals prepared with fresh farm goods. The area is rich in history, with the Gran Bosco de Reme di San Marco nearby, once a timber source for Venice.

The overlooked Dolomites present a unique opportunity for those seeking to explore Italy’s natural beauty away from the crowds. The combination of stunning landscapes, rich culinary traditions, and tranquil hiking paths makes this region a hidden gem for outdoor enthusiasts.

Original report

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