Skincare Routine Becoming Too Complicated: Rise in Perioral Dermatitis
skincare routine becoming: As the skincare routine becomes increasingly complex with numerous products, experts have observed a rise in cases of perioral dermatitis, a chronic inflammatory skin condition. This condition often appears as small red bumps clustered around the mouth, nose, and eyes, and can be mistaken for acne or other common skin issues.
What Is Perioral Dermatitis?
Perioral dermatitis typically starts as a small cluster of spots around the mouth, which can be easily dismissed as a hormonal breakout or a reaction to food. However, it tends to persist and can become more frequent. The condition manifests as clusters of small red bumps, which may look darker on darker skin tones. Unlike acne, perioral dermatitis usually does not involve blackheads and is more likely to cause burning, tightness, dryness, or sensitivity rather than deep, painful spots.
The skin around the mouth is particularly vulnerable because it is thinner and exposed to constant friction and moisture from activities such as speaking, eating, cleansing, and applying skincare products. Products like moisturizers, sunscreen, makeup, and toothpaste can accumulate in this area, potentially triggering inflammation.
Causes Linked to Complex Skincare Routines
One major factor contributing to the rise in perioral dermatitis is the overuse of skincare products, especially those containing potent active ingredients. Many modern skincare products include clinically proven compounds such as antioxidants, retinol, exfoliating enzymes, and acids. While these ingredients target specific skin concerns, their combined use can overwhelm and weaken the skin barrier over time.
Dr. Anjali Mahto, a consultant dermatologist, notes that the increase in perioral dermatitis cases is largely driven by complex routines involving highly concentrated actives. The reaction to these products is often cumulative, with the skin barrier gradually weakening over weeks or months before visible inflammation appears.
Interestingly, “clean beauty” products can also cause problems. Some natural fragrances and newer preservatives used in these products may irritate the skin or disrupt the skin microbiome, contributing to perioral dermatitis. Additionally, the use of topical steroids, often prescribed for eczema, and inhaled steroids for asthma can play a role in triggering the condition.
Other Common Triggers
- Toothpaste and Oral Care: Ingredients like sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), strong flavorings such as mint or cinnamon oils, and alcohol-based mouthwashes may irritate sensitive skin around the mouth. Fluoride is rarely the cause. Orthodontic appliances can increase saliva contact and friction, further irritating the skin.
- Hormonal Factors: Hormonal imbalances, such as those related to polycystic ovary syndrome (PCOS) or fertility treatments, can worsen perioral dermatitis.
Managing and Treating Perioral Dermatitis
The recommended approach to managing perioral dermatitis often involves simplifying the skincare routine. Experts advise stopping all facial cosmetics and topical products, including sunscreen, for a short period. During this time, using a very mild cleanser and a bland, lightweight emollient can help the skin barrier recover.
Once inflammation and redness reduce, gentle anti-inflammatory ingredients like azelaic acid may be introduced gradually. Ingredients that support the skin barrier, such as ceramides, panthenol, centella asiatica (cica), glycerine, and hyaluronic acid, can soothe inflammation and restore moisture. Stronger actives like retinol or acids should only be reintroduced after the skin has fully healed.
In more persistent cases, doctors may prescribe a short course of oral antibiotics or nonsteroidal topical treatments to reduce inflammation. Supportive clinical treatments like LED therapy can also aid healing once inflammation is controlled, but aggressive procedures such as facials, peels, microneedling, or heat-based treatments should be avoided during active flare-ups.
Preventing Future Flare-Ups
Experts emphasize the importance of balance in skincare. Overloading the skin with multiple products and potent actives can lead to inflammation and repeated flare-ups. It is advisable to use lower strengths of active ingredients less frequently and avoid layering several actives simultaneously.
Choosing gentle, fragrance-free, and oil-free products can help maintain the skin barrier. For oral care, switching to a gentler, SLS-free toothpaste and rinsing the skin around the lips after brushing can reduce irritation.
Skincare influencers often promote lengthy routines, but dermatologists recommend trusting advice that emphasizes simplicity and moderation. As Charlotte Palermino, a skincare brand co-founder, notes, “Boring skincare advice tends to be the most sage and results-driven.”
Recommended Products for Sensitive Skin and Perioral Dermatitis
- La Roche-Posay Toleriane Dermo-Cleanser: A gentle, non-foaming cleanser designed for sensitized skin that cleanses without disrupting the skin barrier.
- Avène Tolerance Hydra-10 Hydrating Fluid: A lightweight, fragrance-free moisturizer with hyaluronic acid and thermal spring water to soothe irritation.
- The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10%: A gentle treatment to reduce redness and calm inflammation once the skin has healed.
- Dr Jart+ Cicapair Tiger Grass Camo Drops SPF 35: Contains centella asiatica to soothe redness and offers lightweight coverage with SPF protection.
- Saie Slip Tint Radiant All-Over Concealer: A hydrating concealer suitable for use as perioral dermatitis settles.