East Africa Struggles to Reduce Imports of Used Clothing
Kenya, Uganda, and Tanzania continue to import large quantities of second-hand clothing from Western countries and China, posing challenges for the development of local fashion industries. Despite efforts to limit these imports, the market for used garments remains strong, affecting domestic manufacturers and raising environmental concerns.
Why this matters
The influx of cheap second-hand clothing, known locally as “mitumba,” undercuts local garment producers by offering affordable alternatives that many consumers prefer. This situation hampers the growth of East Africa’s textile and fashion sectors, which are vital for economic development and job creation. Additionally, the environmental impact of discarded textiles is a growing problem, with limited infrastructure to manage waste.
Key developments
- Kenya, the leading importer of used clothing in Africa, received nearly 180,000 tonnes of second-hand garments in 2022, a 76% increase since 2013.
- Uganda introduced a 30% environmental levy on used clothing imports to support local industry and reduce environmental damage, adding to existing import duties and VAT.
- Kenya applies a 30% customs duty on used clothing, slightly higher than the duty on new clothes, but a recent proposal to change taxation was dropped after public backlash.
- Rwanda has successfully reduced its imports of second-hand clothing by increasing taxes, leading to growth in its local garment exports, though smuggling remains an issue.
Market dynamics and challenges
Second-hand clothing markets like Nairobi’s Gikomba and Dar es Salaam’s Ilala remain busy despite heavy rains and taxes. Many consumers choose mitumba for its affordability and quality, with some buyers valuing the uniqueness of the garments. However, local designers and manufacturers struggle to compete on price.
Local industry advocates argue that the second-hand trade supports millions of livelihoods across East Africa, including importers, wholesalers, tailors, and market vendors. Yet critics note that these jobs often lack growth potential and do little to build a sustainable economy compared to production and distribution sectors.
Environmental and regulatory concerns
Environmental groups warn that a significant portion of imported used clothing is of poor quality and ends up in landfills, exacerbating waste management problems. The lack of proper disposal infrastructure in East Africa contributes to overflowing dumpsites.
Internationally, discussions are underway to classify used garments as waste under the Basel Convention, which could lead to higher taxes and stricter controls on imports. This development could further impact the availability of mitumba in East Africa.
What to watch
- How East African governments balance import restrictions with the need to protect consumers who rely on affordable clothing.
- Efforts to develop local textile and garment industries capable of competing with both second-hand and cheap new imports from countries like China and Turkey.
- Potential changes in international regulations affecting the trade and classification of used clothing.
Conclusion
East Africa faces a complex challenge in reducing used clothing imports while supporting local industry and addressing environmental issues. The coexistence of second-hand and locally made garments appears to be the current reality, with calls for policies that empower consumers and foster brand development. The region’s experience highlights the need for comprehensive strategies that consider economic, social, and environmental factors.
Recommended reading
For more context, see related Peack News coverage and explainers linked below.
