Cosmeticorexia: a concerning fixation on perfect skin or a familiar issue?

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By Grace Mitchell

Understanding the Concerning Fixation on Skincare Among Children

The recent rise in children’s focus on skincare has sparked a concerning fixation among some experts about the potential impacts on body image and mental health. This trend, often referred to as “cosmeticorexia,” describes a preoccupation with achieving flawless skin. It has become increasingly visible as young children engage in skincare routines that include products typically meant for adults, such as collagen serums and retinol creams.

Sephora stores have reported an influx of tweens testing products, while social media platforms feature videos of children showcasing their skincare hauls and “get ready with me” routines. Party favors now often include face masks and skincare accessories instead of traditional treats, highlighting how deeply skincare has integrated into youth culture.

What Is Cosmeticorexia?

Cosmeticorexia is a term that has recently entered the conversation around body image and mental health. It refers to an obsessive focus on perfect skin and the excessive use of cosmetic products. Although not officially recognized as a clinical disorder, cosmeticorexia is gaining attention as a potential mental health concern, particularly among pre-adolescents and teenagers.

Italian researchers have studied cosmeticorexia in adult dermatological patients and suggested that it may represent a clinically relevant mental disorder requiring further research and treatment. Associate Professor Giovanni Damiani, a dermatologist at the University of Milan, observed an increase in skin conditions such as irritant and allergic contact dermatitis among children aged eight to 14. These children often used chemical exfoliants and retinoids without medical supervision and exhibited behaviors such as refusing to go out without makeup and excessive cosmetic use that interfered with other interests.

Damiani and clinical psychologist Alberto Stefana from the National Institute of Health in Rome are investigating whether cosmeticorexia in young people could be a risk factor for body dysmorphia and whether early use of cosmetics contributes to skin problems.

Expert Perspectives on the Trend

Grace Collinson, clinical program manager at the Butterfly Foundation in Australia, notes a rise in appearance-related distress among young people, including heightened focus on skin imperfections and a strong drive toward flawlessness. These behaviors often coincide with anxiety, low self-esteem, repetitive behaviors like mirror checking and skin picking, and eating disorders.

While cosmeticorexia is not an officially defined disorder, Collinson suggests that naming the condition can help improve recognition and treatment. However, she also warns against medicalizing behaviors that may not meet the criteria for a mental health disorder or diluting the seriousness of established conditions like body dysmorphic disorder.

Dr. Jasmine Fardouly, a psychology lecturer at the University of Sydney, emphasizes that new medicalized terms can sometimes cause confusion, especially when symptoms overlap with known disorders such as body dysmorphic disorder. She highlights that body image concerns can begin as early as six years old and that over half of young people are unhappy with their appearance to some degree.

Dermatologist Dr. Deshan Sebaratnam from the University of New South Wales describes cosmeticorexia as a modern variation of an old problem, likening it to body dysmorphic disorder. He notes the difficulty in distinguishing between normal vanity and problematic preoccupation, especially in an era dominated by social media, filters, and digital alterations.

Social Media and Commercial Influences

The rise of influencer marketing and targeted advertising has created an environment where perceived skin flaws are magnified and monetized. Young people are exposed to messages that equate acceptance with flawless skin and expensive products, often before they are physically or emotionally ready to process these ideals.

Fifteen-year-old Erin from Sydney exemplifies this trend, following skincare influencers on YouTube and TikTok and maintaining a daily skincare routine that includes multiple products. While she does not consider her interest problematic, she acknowledges that some young people use products like retinol prematurely, which can be harmful.

Parents of millennials and Gen X teens recall their own skincare habits from the 1990s with less concern, suggesting that social media has intensified the focus on skincare and makeup among today’s youth.

Next Steps and Support

The Italian research team is conducting further medical studies to better understand cosmeticorexia, with results expected later this year. Their initial findings indicate a strong link between cosmeticorexia and social media dependence.

For those seeking support, organizations such as the Butterfly Foundation in Australia, the BDD Foundation in the UK, and the International OCD Foundation in the US provide resources related to body image and body dysmorphic disorder.

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