Suzie Flores, a marine farmer off the Connecticut coast, is working to encourage Americans to incorporate seaweed, specifically sugar kelp, into their diets. After leaving a career in Manhattan, Flores now runs the Stonington Kelp Company, harvesting sugar kelp from the Atlantic Ocean near one of Connecticut’s last commercial fishing ports. Her efforts focus not only on promoting seaweed as a sustainable food source but also on revitalizing small fishing towns along the US coastline.
From Manhattan to Marine Farming
<pFlores transitioned from a desk job in academic publishing to farming sugar kelp after questioning the life she was building for her family. With three children and a desire for meaningful work, she and her husband purchased a marina on the Connecticut–Rhode Island border and began kelp farming. Flores studied environmental science and connected with experts in seaweed farming, including University of Connecticut biologist Charlie Yarish and the non-profit GreenWave, which supports new seaweed farmers.
Despite initial challenges, including a lack of market demand, Flores created her own customer base by reaching out to farm-to-table restaurants. She educated chefs about sugar kelp’s mild, briny flavor, which differs from the rubbery texture often associated with Pacific kelp varieties. This approach has led to a successful business that sells out every season, supplying high-end kitchens in the region.
Seaweed’s Culinary and Environmental Appeal
Chefs like David Standridge of The Shipwright’s Daughter in Mystic, Connecticut, value sugar kelp for its versatility and local character. As one of the first fresh “vegetables” available in New England each year, sugar kelp offers a crunchy, light, and salty flavor that complements many dishes. Standridge notes that kelp carries the “character of the water it grew in,” adding a subtle oceanic quality to meals.
Beyond its culinary uses, sugar kelp provides environmental benefits. It absorbs nitrogen pollution from the water, improving water quality and creating habitats for marine life such as blue mussels and fish. These ecological advantages support Flores’s commitment to sustainable farming and ocean health.
Challenges and Vision for the Future
The US currently imports over 90% of its seaweed, mainly from Asia, where seaweed cultivation has a long history. North American production remains small, and infrastructure for processing and distribution is limited. Farmers face risks from harsh weather, such as storms and freezing conditions that damage kelp lines and reduce crop yields. Flores experienced significant losses during a recent winter but still sold out her crop due to strong demand.
Flores envisions a future where small family farms, rather than large companies, drive the growth of kelp farming along the New England coast. This model would allow fishermen to grow kelp in the off-season using existing boats and equipment, providing a supplemental income with relatively low startup costs. The gradual expansion of oyster aquaculture in the region serves as a model for this approach.
In addition to farming, Flores teaches seaweed-related courses at Yale University, the University of Massachusetts Boston, and local schools. She incorporates seaweed into culinary programs to familiarize younger generations with this sustainable food source. While children may initially be skeptical, they often enjoy kelp when it is included in familiar dishes like macaroni and cheese.
Flores hopes that encouraging Americans to eat seaweed will contribute to a more sustainable food system and help restore the economic vitality of coastal fishing communities. She describes kelp as “the lobster roll of the future,” reflecting the decline of the lobster industry and the need for new, ocean-based livelihoods.
By promoting sugar kelp as a nutritious, environmentally friendly, and locally sourced food, Flores aims to build a sustainable future for both the ocean and the towns along its shores.